Chateau Croix de Labrie 2020, Saint-Emilion Grand Cru, France

Croix de Labrie is one of the original "garage" wines of 1990s Saint-Émilion: tiny production, obsessive care, and a property most people had never heard of. Axelle and Pierre Courdurié have run it since 2013, farming organically and biodynamically, and in 2022 it was promoted to Grand Cru Classé. The estate's cellars at Saint-Christophe-des-Bardes date from 1687.

The 2020 comes from 5.7 hectares of 50-year-old vines, almost all Merlot with a dash of both Cabernets. The grapes are picked by hand and vinified plot by plot before 18 months in barrel. It is deeply coloured, near-opaque, with chocolate, black cherry, blueberry, espresso and liquorice: lush and polished, but held in shape by firm tannins and real freshness. James Suckling scored it 98–99 and wondered whether it might be the best they have made; Jeff Leve gave it 96. It will drink well from now until 2045, ideally alongside a slow-cooked roast.

At a glance: Mostly Merlot, with Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon · Saint-Émilion Grand Cru Classé · organic and biodynamic · vegan · drink to 2045

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